Sarrows | United Arrows' Commitment to Ethical Manufacturing

As awareness arounds sustainability grows, so does interest in the story behind our products: "In what kind of environment, and by whose hands, was this made?" With the importance of respecting human rights in business becoming more pronounced, creating a better environment for everyone involved with United Arrows is perhaps our most important task.

United Arrows provides is more than just an object. We create special pieces that bring a thrill of excitement or a sense of peace when worn. That is why the well-being of the people involved in making them is so important. We believe the care that factory workers put into each item contributes directly to its appeal.

The "Humanity" pillar of "Sarrows" is guided by the goal: "To ensure the well-being and happiness of everyone involved with United Arrows. We will protect their rights and create an environment where they can live and work in good health." We have set specific targets, including our "Code of Conduct Agreement Rate" and "Employee Net Promoter Score."

As of August 2024, our Code of Conduct Agreement Rate reached 74.4%. This Code of Conduct, developed for our supply chain partners, is based on international principles such as the Universal Declaration of Human Rights and International Labour Organization (ILO) standards. It outlines the principles and actions that United Arrows values in craftsmanship. We encourage our partners to fully adhere to these standards to protect the dignity of all workers.

Learn more about "Humanity"

The audit we observed represents a step beyond simply signing an agreement. What exactly happens during this process, and what kind of relationship does it foster? We spoke with Mr. Nobe from United Arrows and Mr. Isoyama and Mr. Tominaga from Jikko to learn more.

A Changing Garment Industry Demands a Better Working Environment

Yoshinori Nobe, Product Management Section, SCM Division, United Arrows

To begin, could you tell us how United Arrows started conducting factory audits?

Nobe: It started in 2015 when the UN Summit adopted the SDGs. United Arrows decided to align with these goals, and that became our guiding policy. A few years later, various issues concerning the working conditions of foreign technical intern trainees in Japan came to light. In response, we evolved what was initially a set of CSR guidelines into our "Code of Conduct for Supply Chain Partners." We began providing this document to new partners when starting our relationship and re-presenting it to our continuing partners to obtain their formal agreement.

So, based on that Code of Conduct, you began conducting factory audits to see the working environments of the people involved in manufacturing firsthand.

Nobe: The audits started about three years ago. We began by reaching out to our domestic partners with the highest order volumes and arranging opportunities to visit their facilities. The reality is that the Japanese sewing industry now relies on foreign technical intern trainees. Since craftsmanship is the core of United Arrows, protecting the working environment in our factories is an urgent matter. While there is a trend toward automation, the human eye and hand are still essential for achieving a high degree of quality. Therefore, we cannot spare any effort in our work to protect human rights.

From Jikko's perspective, what was your impression of United Arrows' Sarrows initiative and these audits?

Tominaga: Our company is a third-generation sewing factory, and our relationship with United Arrows began in 2011. Over these 14 years, we have steadily built trust and a track record of success. As was just mentioned, the sewing industry and its workforce have changed dramatically in the last decade.

We have also brought in foreign technical intern trainees and have been improving our facility's environment step by step. However, we felt we needed an objective perspective to know what we were doing well and where we could improve. The offer to have this audit came at the perfect time; we saw it as a great opportunity.

Koichi Tominaga, Manager, the Administration Manager, Jikko Co., Ltd.

Nobe: I'm happy to hear you say that. The word "audit" can often feel intimidating, creating a sense of being judged. And I can tell Mr. Isoyama and Mr. Tominaga are very nervous today (laughs).

Tominaga: Yes, I am. I'm anxiously waiting to see what feedback we’ll receive (laughs).

Nobe: But we ask this of you because we want to continue our partnership for a long time. We hope you’ll see this audit as an opportunity for discovery and growth.

Tominaga: I agree. Looking toward the future of our industry, I see this as a valuable opportunity and will approach it with that mindset.

An Audit Is a Company's Health Check

So, what does a factory audit actually look like? This audit was conducted with a third-party organization, and the auditor began with a memorable opening statement: "An audit is like a company's health check." It is a chance for a periodic check-up, not to leave problems unaddressed, but to think about how to improve them. The auditor also made a point to say, "We want to highlight what you are doing well," reinforcing that the goal is to encourage and expand upon excellent practices.

Second from right: Toshinori Isoyama, President and CEO, Jikko Co., Ltd.

The process began with a management interview. Based on a pre-submitted checklist, Jikko employees, including Mr. Isoyama and Mr. Tominaga, answered the auditor's questions. The list contained around 130 items, ranging from basics like, "Does the labor contract specify wages, working hours, and holidays?" to safety standards such as, "Are evacuation drills conducted at employee dormitories?

This was followed by a document review, where details like payroll slips were examined and guidance was provided.

Next was the on-site inspection. The auditor checked the safety of the production lines and the condition of break areas and restrooms. During this phase, the inspector praised several areas, noting, "This is excellent. You have this set up very well."

For example, at Jikko, the area around the cutting machines is clearly marked with tape to indicate a hazard zone. This warns non-operators to keep out, a measure that is not always sufficient in other factories.

The clear and visible placement of evacuation route maps was also noted as a key strength. Fire extinguishers were properly installed with signs and instructions, and the addition of drip trays to prevent deterioration of the extinguishers themselves was also highly commended.

Following the inspection, the auditor conducted confidential employee interviews. Several staff members, including foreign technical intern trainees, were invited to speak privately about their daily working environment and life in the dormitories.

Finally, after the auditor compiled the day's findings, the process concluded with a closing meeting. Along with words of thanks for their cooperation, the auditor carefully explained the areas of high praise and those that represented opportunities for future improvement. It truly was like a "company health check." The anxious expressions on Mr. Isoyama and Mr. Tominaga's faces gradually softened, replaced by an engaged demeanor as they began asking questions about how to address the points that were raised.

Deepening a Collaborative Trust Through Audits

Thank you for your time and effort with today's factory audit. Now that it's over, what are your honest impressions?

Tominaga: To be honest, I'm just incredibly relieved that we received a positive final evaluation. A great learning for us was clarifying the areas where we can take pride. We have always been thorough with things like needle handling, which is critical in a sewing factory, and have put great care into other safety aspects.

Having those efforts officially recognized has given us a boost of confidence. At the same time, it was very beneficial to gain new insights and clearly identify areas for improvement. It's rare to have an opportunity to compare your own factory with others, so it's easy to be unaware of what you might be missing. We can now take concrete action to address the issues that were identified.

Finally, could you share your outlook on the future for both United Arrows and Jikko?

Tominaga: The Japanese sewing industry is now at a point where it is difficult to sustain without the help of foreign technical intern trainees. As regulations evolve, it is our responsibility as the host company to provide a complete and proper environment, which will ultimately be assessed by a national audit. In that context, being able to work proactively with our client, United Arrows, through this audit process is extremely constructive. I feel this is a model for a collaborative partnership.

Nobe: To create products that truly satisfy our customers, I want to create more opportunities for communication with everyone on the factory floor. For example, it might be a good idea to hold meetings between the factories that have undergone a UA audit. By building a network among our partners, we could encourage a more active exchange of information to solve common challenges. Craftsmanship is impossible without collaboration with our partners. We will continue to put our full effort into deepening these essential relationships.

Profiles

Koichi Tominaga
Mr. Tominaga joined Jikko Co., Ltd. in 2011 and currently serves as the Administration Manager, as well as the Technical Intern Training Program Supervisor. While coordinating production schedules on the factory floor, he also provides technical guidance to trainees and supports an environment conducive to learning, aiming for even higher product quality.

Yoshinori Nobe
After experience at an ODM manufacturer and a vintage clothing store, Mr. Nobe joined United Arrows in 2007. In the Product Management Section of the SCM Division, he oversees production for original men's and women's products. He now also participates in factory audits, focusing on building stronger relationships with our partners.